A little known fact: Kentucky was home to the country’s first ever commercial vineyard. I know! I was just as surprised to learn this as you. It was planted in Nicholasville in 1798 by Jean Jacques Dufour, the winemaker for the Marquis de Lafayette. Fancy. Over the next 100 years Kentucky became one of the largest wine producers in the country. But, unfortunately, Prohibition put the kibosh on all that. In the past few decades, however, more and more farmers began to realize that their land was prime for grape growing. Thus, the resurgence of Kentucky wine.
I am back home here in Kentucky for the holidays and couldn’t miss the opportunity to taste some KY vino! I was excited to try some American grapes like norton, chambourcin, niagara and seyval blanc. American winemaking grapes come from the Vitis Labrusca family as opposed to Vitis Vinifera (chardonnay, merlot, etc). And being truly girly and southern, I was even more excited to taste some fruit wines. I drove out to Versailles through horse farms and barns and….vines. Of course, grape vines! It’s funny what you notice when you’re looking for it. I lived here for 17 years and never did I once see a single vine.
I arrived at a small barn-like building surrounded by bare vines and blackberry bushes. This was Wildside Winery. It is a small operation producing only 1,500 cases a year. They make wines from the grapes I mentioned above and also quite a few fruit wines. The standout for me was the blackberry wine. Exactly like biting into a ripe, juicy blackberry. There was very little added sugar so the tartness of the fruit was still very present. I had a childhood flashback moment as I imagined I was in Anne of Green Gables drinking out of a cordial glass and getting tipsy. I also liked a red wine made from the cynthiana grape, but overall my tasting experience was less than stellar. Perhaps I just don’t fancy many of these American varietals I tried. I guess it is yet to be known, as I still have many more producers to try from this area. But, I do have hope for our Kentucky winemakers for they are improving year by year and developing their technique.
If anything, Wildside was incredibly charming. The tasting room is also the cellar and where the fermenting tanks are held. Oh, and also the bottling and labeling area. And a gift shop. So, a small operation indeed. As I left with a bottle of blackberry wine in hand I was wished ”Merry Christmas.” And I’m very sure this Christmas will be merry. And jolly. Just me, my family, a bright and shining Christmas tree and a glass full of blackberry wine. It’s the simple things in life… And for you, Santa and I wish you much happiness and a glass always full!
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