Cagliari, Sardinia.
I awoke from a much needed nap to the sounds of church bells and breezes. A day of travel and strong beach breezes left me tired. I dressed and met my new friend Alessandra down the street for an early evening stroll through the old town. We window shopped and gazed with mouths watering at everyone’s cones of soft ice cream. It seems as though 7 PM was the magic hour for a cone in Cagliari that night. Ale’s cousin Omar and his friend joined us on our walk…which ended at a wine bar. Of course it did. Salumi and cheese was shared as was Sardinian rose.
9:30 PM and stomachs rumbling, Omar places a call. An important call. To his mama. Did I want to have dinner at their home? A typical Sardinian meal? Duh. Yes- in a hurry. We arrived 30 minutes later with wine in hand (2007 Cannonau and a Sardinian frizzante) to the scent of grilled prawns wafting through the night air from the outdoor kitchen. Lucia had outdone herself. A rice dish of fresh grilled octopus, whole grilled fish, grilled gamberi rossi….and a cheese course complete with bottarga. Salt cured fish roe. Which fish? Not the normal muggine, no. Tonight it was swordfish bottarga.
The swordfish bottarga hidden in a sea of cheese. The saltiness is overwhelming. But intoxicatingly overwhelming (in a good way.) A few crumbs is sufficient. After a fashion show of every large and colorful hat in Lucia’s closet and it’s matching glove pairing, it was time for something sweet.
Lucia returned from the kitchen with 3 chilled bottles of homemade liquore. We must try them all, she demanded! You don’t have to twist my arm…the offerings: the traditional Sardinian mirto (berries from the myrtle plant- like blueberries…sort of), limoncello and to my surprise- bay leaf.
2:30 AM Eyelids heavy and bellies beyond full and aching from guffaw-like laughter it was time to say goodbye. My most sincere of thanks to Lucia and Omar for being such generous (and entertaining) hosts. And to Alessandra for showing me how and why Sardinians do it better. A kent’annos!
