Well- I’m back! It was a short trip, but filled to the brim. I have a lot of photos and info to share but let’s start with a trip into southern Puglia. The land of primitivo. After a morning of judging wines for Radici’s Festival dei Vitigni Autoctoni we were off on what would become considered by many as the most epic bus ride ever to have occurred in Southern Italy. We visited the vineyards of Morella and Attanasio in anticipation of the vertical tasting of their wines we would have later that night.
the beginnings of the grape…
Alberelli: Bush vines- the traditional and arguably the best planting and training method for primitivo. These are Morella’s prized 60 year old vines which make their “Old Vines” label.
Lisa Gilbee- winemaker for Morella. And an Aussie! ”My children run through these vineyards and we walk through tasting grapes. I don’t want any chemicals,” on one of the reasons why her vineyards are biodynamically farmed.
Luca Attanasio of Attanasio.
These Attanasio vines are planted in a darker, denser earth as opposed to Morella’s terra rossa soil just a few kilometers away.
After the second leg of the now infamous most epic bus ride in all of Southern Italy (ever), we finally made it to dinner. We were able to taste verticals of both Attanasio and Morella primitivo back to 2000.
After a few days of blind tasting dozens of primitivos that I was generally not impressed by, I was happy to finally have these wines in my glass. Standouts for me were the 2005 Attanasio and 2001 Morella in which the fruit takes center stage as opposed to the oak. Which seemed to be a bit of problem for me with most of the wines during the week. Modern styled wines vs. traditional. French oak vs. large oak cask. The eternal debate.
I have to say though that on the whole primitivo is just not my cup of tea. It often is just not structured enough and many of the wines I tried were just incredibly overoaked.
And just because it was so pretty, I have to share my dessert of plum cake (which was paired with a 2007 Attanasio primitivo dolce)…just look at them cherries.
PS- Here is a great article and overview of Puglian wine from Tom Cannavan one of my colleagues on the judging panel. In it, he talks of Lisa and Luca’s wines and philosophies much better than I.
I have a wrap up of the festival with the winning wines and my thoughts on the way. As well as my Sardinian adventures. Giddy up!
