An Attic Full of Acid Never Tasted So Good

by whitney on October 31, 2009



The Medici family not only makes great wine, but fantastic Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia as well. This is balsamic classified as being made in the traditional method by a consortium in Emilia Romagna (there is also the famous Aceto Balsamico di Modena nearby.)

signage

must to wine to vinegar

I thought I knew a bit about balsamic, but I didn’t really. Not until I could physically see the process. So, this is the breakdown of the process in a sort of “Dummies Guide to Balsamic Making”. Because I am, by no means, an expert:

  1. Take must (freshly pressed grape juice, basically)  from  the winemaking process. In this case, Lambrusco juice. Cook over an open flame for about 24 hours.
  2. Put in the barrels you see above. Wait. Wait some more. Until 1st fermentation occurs, turning the must into wine. This can take up to a year…these barrels are open to oxygen and can’t be temperature controlled.
  3. The “wine” is then moved to a series of smaller barrels up in the attic above, called an acetaia. The barrels, 5 in this case in descending size, can vary in wood type or be the same. The wood in the Medici Ermete acetaia ranged from cherry, oak, juniper, apple to chestnut and a few others. Each wood lending a different quality and aroma and taste.
  4. Wait some more. Now, the waiting gets longer. Acetic oxidation or fermentation must now take place. The liquid is moved from bigger barrels to smaller barrels as the amount of liquid is reduced due to evaporation.
  5. Wait again. For like 12 to 15 years minimum. You might have children in this time, your children may even have children. You get the point. There is balsamic still aging that started before Alberto was born some 45-50 years ago. It is for family consumption only I am told. Damn.
  6. Bottle it. 12 years and up is sold as “tradizionale”. 25 years and up is “extra vecchio.” Medici Ermete makes: Red label 18 years, Silver label 25 years, Gold label 30 years. And  that gold label….it is beyond amazingly good.

little jewel boxes of balsamico

aceto attic

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